What Is an Asscher Cut Diamond? The Vintage Glamour You’ll Love

Not every diamond cut has a story. But the Asscher? That’s a whole different conversation. With crisp edges and mirrored depths, it’s a cut rooted in the early 1900s and still manages to feel completely modern. Think old Hollywood drama mixed with quiet confidence—never flashy, always intentional.

For anyone craving a diamond that stands apart from the usual sparkle-fest, the Asscher cut offers something cooler, moodier, more sophisticated. It’s not trying to be trendy. It already had its moment—and it’s still here.

Where the Asscher Cut Began

This square-cut stunner dates back to 1902, crafted by Joseph Asscher, a Dutch diamond cutter with a thing for symmetry and architectural beauty. The design caught fire in the Art Deco era when geometry and clean lines were all the rage.

You’ve probably seen its influence before—even if you didn’t realise it. Vintage rings from the ‘20s and ‘30s often showcase the Asscher’s signature shape: a square outline with deeply clipped corners and layers of step-cut facets that draw the eye inward like a spiral staircase of light.

Today, it’s making a comeback—not in a loud, trendy way, but in a “this still works” kind of way. The look is clean, elegant, and quietly bold. And if you’re browsing collections of Asscher cut diamond rings, you’ll notice they feel deliberate—designed with both history and style in mind.

What Makes Asscher Cut Diamonds Different?

Step-cut stones like the Asscher don’t rely on brilliance alone. They’re about depth, dimension, and that hypnotic hall-of-mirrors effect. Each facet is broad and flat, creating flashes of light rather than sparkly pinpoints. The result? A glow that feels steady, not showy. It’s a slower kind of beauty—like staring into a still lake instead of a fountain. And when you catch it in the right light, it gives off this quiet drama that’s almost cinematic. One look and you’ll get it: there’s elegance here, but it’s not trying too hard.

Unlike round brilliants, Asschers don’t hide imperfections well. That openness means clarity matters more here—most high-quality Asscher rings feature stones with very few inclusions and minimal colour. And because the cut puts so much emphasis on symmetry, even the setting can either elevate or disrupt the look.

Best Brilliance curates beautiful Asscher cut diamond rings that meet these standards: high clarity, balanced proportions, and designs that let the stone breathe. There’s a reason their customers come back asking for this cut by name—it’s not just a diamond. It’s an aesthetic.

Setting Styles That Work Best

While the cut does plenty on its own, the right setting turns it into something unforgettable. Many opt for solitaires to let the stone speak—especially when it’s a larger carat weight—but halos, double halos, and vintage-style settings only deepen the retro feel.

For a sleek, modern take? Try an east-west orientation or bezel mount. These pair the Asscher’s geometric nature with a minimalist edge that feels fresh without losing its vintage soul.

Three-stone styles work beautifully too—especially when flanked by baguettes or tapered cuts. They frame the center diamond and echo the Asscher’s structured elegance without overwhelming it.

And if you’re going for something personal, don’t skip the custom route. Best Brilliance offers consultations that help you build your own version of timeless, from band metal to prong shape. The result feels like a modern heirloom—one that starts with you.

Why This Cut Is Sticking Around

In a world of trends that come and go fast, there’s something comforting about a diamond that doesn’t need to reinvent itself. The Asscher isn’t for everyone—and that’s part of its charm. It’s for people who want clarity in both stone and statement.

It looks vintage, yes. But it wears like a quiet rebellion against the ordinary. If you’re someone who finds beauty in structure, symmetry, and subtlety, you’ll understand the draw immediately.

And let’s be honest—this cut looks incredible in real life. It doesn’t fight for the spotlight. It owns it, quietly. In a room full of sparkle, it glows differently.

Thinking About an Asscher Cut? Here’s What to Know

If you’re eyeing an Asscher cut for your next ring—whether it’s for an engagement or something beautifully self-earned—there are a few tips to keep in mind:

Clarity is king. Choose a diamond with few inclusions (VS2 or higher, ideally) since everything’s visible in this transparent cut.
Colour matters. Stick to near-colourless (G or better) for that crisp, clean look.
Let it lead. Don’t over-accessorise the setting. A well-cut Asscher shines best in designs that echo its geometry or give it space to radiate.

When you’re ready to invest in a ring that doesn’t follow the crowd, an Asscher cut might be exactly what you’ve been waiting for. I think they’re absolutely stunning and unique! Just what you want in a ring.